Tamiya - Porsche 911 GT3 RS (992) - out of the box Full Build & Unboxing
Welcome to Dudley’s Hub! My name is Daniel Dudley, and I'm known for my work in scale model car building. I believe in the principle of continuous improvement and recognize that there's always more to learn, regardless of one’s skill level.
In this space, I’ll share my modeling projects and insights. I currently have three upcoming builds that I plan to document through blogs and videos. The first model will be presented straight out of the box, using stock-color paint from Zero Paint. The second model will follow the same approach but will utilize paint from ProPaint. For the final model, I will explore the integration of 3D-printed parts to enhance its appearance, along with a new paint scheme.
My goal is to demonstrate three different methods of building scale models, providing you with a comprehensive understanding of the various techniques involved.
I want to start by saying that the way I build my models is tailored for specific uses—in this case, for photo display and reviews of paint. Not many people will see the intricate details, so the interior detail is not the most important aspect; the focus is primarily on the car's body. However, if I plan for others to see the model, I will add more detail to every part and do my best to make it stand out, especially the body of the car.
I kicked off this build with a bang by diving straight into the Undercarriage of my model car! There’s something thrilling about starting from the ground up. Armed with my trusty 180 sanding paper, I meticulously sanded down the sides to eliminate those pesky spots from the cuts. Once that was done, I grabbed my PC-5M Uni Posca and treated the undercarriage with bold strokes—it might not be the conventional method, but it gets the job done quickly, and I’m all about that efficiency!
Next up, I turned my attention to the exhaust, detailing it with some eye-catching silver from the PC-3M Uni Posca and adding depth with Tamiya Weathering Master - D. With the undercarriage complete, I was on a roll! I dived into the interior, cutting and sanding parts with my reliable 180 sanding paper once more. It was time to unleash my creativity again with the red Uni Posca, transforming the interior into a vibrant masterpiece. Once everything was pieced together, I left it to dry, brimming with excitement for the next step—working on the body of the model!
I want to share some links related to what I've discussed in this part of the blog. This will help you understand my choices better. You can also get a 10% discount on the pens, and I receive a small commission from the sales, which supports both of us.
I've created a video explaining why I use Posca pens, and I've also written a review of Gaahleri pens. If you're interested in purchasing them, just click here to access the shop and apply the discount. Thank you for your support!
When I build a model car, the magic starts with the body! I love focusing on those steam lines that form when piecing the model together. It’s like watching the car come to life right before my eyes! To keep track of these lines, I use a black marker pen; when that line disappears, it’s usually a good sign that the seam line has vanished, too.
The fun begins with my 180-grit sanding paper, which I apply to the underside and inside of the model. This might sound extreme, but trust me, it works wonders and leaves an incredible finish almost every time! Plus, it’s a fantastic way to unwind. I kick things off with DSPIAE dry sanding, moving from 180 to 2500 grit, before switching to wet sanding with the same brand from 1000 to 2500 grit.
I’ve discovered that this method is a game-changer! Unlike the traditional 180, 400, 800, 1500, and 2500 grit approach, which can leave unsightly lines, my technique ensures a smooth, flawless surface. Although I’ve found that Tamiya models can be a little finicky, I stick to my routine and see amazing results—especially when getting that primer just right. It’s all part of the thrilling journey of creating something truly remarkable!
After expertly sanding the model to perfection, I embraced the thrill of achieving a smooth, matte finish that truly brings the body to life! Next, I whipped up some hot, soapy water, taking care to keep the body submerged, and then I grabbed my trusty sponge. With the energizing green side, I tackled every nook and cranny, scrubbing away any remnants of dust and debris. Once that was done, I switched to the gentle yellow side to give it a final polish, revealing its stunning sheen. I set the body aside to air dry, my excitement building as I prepared for the next step. Finally, I couldn’t wait to test fit it with the inner workings of the model, laying everything down to ensure it sat perfectly straight and level.
This step is part of my workflow, and while you often don’t need to follow it strictly, I prefer to take this approach. You can typically just use a brush or a damp cloth—whatever method works best for you. I’ve been doing it my way since the beginning and I haven’t looked back. I’m aware of the dust that can accumulate, and when I skip this step and only use a brush for priming, I often end up with lumps. So, knowing this, I clean the model using my preferred method, and it works well for me.
After giving the model a thorough cleaning, I dived right into the exciting part—putting down the primer! I opted for a sleek gray and let it dry for a whole two days, building the anticipation for what was to come.
Next up, I grabbed some Zero Paint for the base coat and fired up the airbrush. Watching that color come to life was exhilarating! I let it dry for about four days, ensuring it was perfect before moving on.
Then came the magic of decals! I used the ones straight from the box, applying them with the brilliant MI-1 Microscale Micro Set using a paint pen. It was thrilling to see the decal transform the model as I carefully placed it using a toothpick and an earbud, smoothing everything out to perfection.
Once it was looking just right, I applied some MI-2 Micro Sol to secure those decals in place while I got the body ready for its glorious clear coat. After letting it dry for a day, I could hardly wait to see the final result! This whole process was nothing short of a paint-filled adventure!
After leaving the decals to dry for one day, I applied the clear (Lacquer) and left it to dry for two days.
After an exhilarating two days of anticipation, I finally glued the little added parts to the body! Using the incredible Bob Smith Industries super gold glue, I carefully positioned each piece, bonding them to the main structure with precision. Once everything was in place, I secured the inside and underside, creating a seamless connection with those added parts. Feeling the thrill of my progress, I placed the entire creation inside an empty box, sealed it up tight, and let it rest for a whole week to dry!
I’ve found that using Bob Smith glue is excellent because it never leaves white marks on the model or the clear parts. Although the glue can be difficult to find and is not cheap, I believe it’s the best option available. I’ve tried many super glues, and this one stands out as the best. I even have a blog about glue that you can check out.
Additionally, using a box with a lid helps keep dust away from the model while it’s drying. Another effective method is to ensure that your paint booth is clean and to use it at the end of your project. Simply leave the model in the paint booth for about 8 hours before moving it.
The top photo is of the model car at the end of it all, I have got video’s over on youtube showing you how I built it all together, I’ve also got photo’s on my social media mostly on Instagram and Facebook but the photos what I used on this blog is the same as the social media post but if you want to show your support you can by clicking the right places. You can also see my past builds by clicking here.
The way I have shared is the way what works for me.
Thank your for your time and reading my blog and I hope this blog helped you, If not please comment so I can get better at doing these, If you like my work and want to support me for free you can by sharing my blog and following me on social media and subscribing to my youtube channel. If you want to support me more for £1 a month you can by becoming a patreon member or get a handmade card from my online only shop, or just becoming a member of my newsletter.
Thank you agein.
Dudley’s Scale Model Car’s