Tamiya - Renault 5 Turbo - Custom paint job with Full Build

Welcome to Dudley’s Hub, I am Daniel Dudley known as Dudley’s Scale Model Car’s, I will do my best and never try and say I am the best model builder out there I belive you can always get better, Even if you are the best out there you are always learning, So after that I am here to share my work and how I did the paint work on this model, I never thought people will like the screen of the model I did! I’ve got 2 more of them to do and I am going to do their blogs, video and build in steps like this one is a custom paint job, and at the end I will do a review. The next one is straight out of the box and stock colour the last one I am going to explore this for 3D parts to make the model look good and I will do a new paint scream for that one too. What the plan is to show you the all 2 ways of building the models and this way was just a added build.

I think I should start by saying, The way I build my models is one of the ways I am going to be using the models, Like this one is for myself use and not a lot of people won`t see this one and the inside detail wont be the most important part of the model the body is, But if I would want others to see the model I will add more detail to everything and do my best to make it stand out like the body of the car will be doing.

I always start with the Undercarriage of my model cars and this build is nothing different and I started with that, I used a 180 sanding paper and sanded the sides only to get rid of the spocets I cut it a way from then after doing that I got a block PC-5M Uni Posca todo all the under the model it’s not the best way to do it but I like doing its faster, I also used the silver PC-3M Uni Posca to do the engine and I also used Tamiya Weathering master - D, And I used Gaahleri GM-MS 01 Alumininum for the scratch pad. When the under the model is done, I started the inside of the model by cutting the parts and sanding using the 180 sanding paper again then using the same Posca but not silver but red I got the inside of the model done and then got it all together then left until the body of the model is done.

I just want to share some link’s to what I have spoke about this part of the blog to allow you to see why I did it that way, and you can get 10% off the pens too and I get a bit of the sale too, So I have done a video sharing why I use Posca, I have also did a review of the Gaahleri pens, If you go to there shop and get them I can give you 10% off Yes I do get a bit from the sale but it helps both, Just click here if you want it.

I think I should start by saying, The way I build my models body cars are always the same way I try my best to make them as best and smoth before doing any tipe of painting on the model, The way I do this part is over the top but 90% of the time it work and look at the end good, The way I do it works for me and you might have a better way what works for you and that is still ok.

After working on the undercarriage and inside of the model to allow it to dry, I always start body of the model car’s I am building, I start with the steam lines there are when the comply build the model and have to but the body together and it also leaves a line, So I can see it I get a black stratpie marker pen to show me where the lines are and when the black line is gone most of the time the seam line is also gone for doing it I use the 180 sanding paper I use on the under and inside of the model.

This is the part what is over the top but it 90% of the time it work and look’s good after, It also help me by relaxing, But I use the DSPIAE dry (No water) starting with the 180 to 2500 grit, Then using the same brand and only 1000 to 2500 and wet (With Water), I do it this way because I have found if I use 180, 400, 800, 1500 and 2500 it leaves lines on the model, I have also found the way I do it the Tamiya models don’t like it, But I before to keep the routine, I also found the primer goes down better.

This is when I am cleaning the body

This is when I am test fitting the body

After sanding the model and taking that time to do it right and make the body smooth and a matt look of the body is there, I get some hot soapy water then but the body only in the hot soapy water, Then get the spounts and using the green side I clean it the after using the yellow side to get the shop off I clean it then but it to one side to air dry and then test fit it with the inside and under of the model and but it down to see if it’s street and level.

This step is one of them what goes by your working space, Most of the time you don’t need to do this way and just use a brush to do this step or just get a damp cloth once again it the way that work for you, From the start I did it this way and never looked back, But I know about the dust and when I don’t do it that way and only use a brush and get the priming down it always has lumps so knowing that I just clean the model the way I do. It work for me.

After cleaning the model, First I put the prime down I gone for black and I also used it for the base coat I used a airbrush, I left it to dry for a day or less and then using masking tape I but the plan of what I want on the body and then painted the body then unmask it then leave it a 2 days.

With masking up and at the end of the paint and before the paint is dry I found getting the masking tape off as fast as you can because If you leave it on until the model is dry it will make the base coat light or might remove it then it’s harder to fix it.

After leaving the paint to dry for 2 days I got the decals I want and but them to the body, Then after that I but the clear (Lacquer) and left it to dry for a day.

The next day I painted the little added parts to the body and then fitted them to the model, I used the Bob Smith Industries super gold, and jus put them on the body and then put the inside and underside together with the added parts. Then leave it in a box with nothing in it and put the lid on then just leave it for 4 days to dry.

I found using the Bob Smith glue is good because it never leaves white marks on the model or the clear parts, The glue is not easy to get or cheap but for what it is and does it’s the best to get I belive because I have use must super glue and that’s the best I found, I have got a blog about glue here it is.

The box with a lid on helps keep the dust away from then model when it’s drying, The other way is to keep your paint booth clean and use it at the end of the job and just leave the model in there for about 8hr and then move it.

The top photo is of the model car at the end of it all, I have got video’s over on youtube showing you how I built it all together, I’ve also got photo’s on my social media mostly on Instagram and Facebook but the photos what I used on this blog is the same as the social media post but if you want to show your support you can by clicking the right places. You can also see my past builds by clicking here.

The way I have shared is the way what works for me.

Thank your for your time and reading my blog and I hope this blog helped you, If not please comment so I can get better at doing these, If you like my work and want to support me for free you can by sharing my blog and following me on social media and subscribing to my youtube channel. If you want to support me more for £1 a month you can by becoming a patreon member or get a handmade card from my online only shop, or just becoming a member of my newsletter.
Thank you agein.
Dudley’s Scale Model Car’s